The following travel journal is mostly taken from emails to Carol. I have added text, and photos.
Saturday, July 13, Avignon
Dear Carol, Finally! It has been an effort to get on-line but I'm here at last.
So far better than so good. The trip to get here was long and tiring, as expected. We arrived Avignon ~6 PM, = 20+ hours of travel, hardly any sleep, 7 episodes of House of Cards, an outstanding political drama starring Kevin Spacey.
Brian (Mills) and I will travel well together. We've had some good conversations and our travel needs and attitudes seem quite compatible.
Two hours till we meet the group. Time to have a bite to eat.
Sunday Morning, July 14, Sault
Dear Carol, Still struggling to find access. This morning I located a computer with Internet connection. Yay
First ride yesterday. Most riders are younger, of course, and much stronger. Many tri-athletes. Two couples are closer to my age. I am slowly getting acquainted with others. I can tell that I am in that mode of not wanting to interact much with people. I suspect I am experiencing some depression resulting from the travel and getting my body and brain chemicals back to normal. Nothing to be concerned about. I am thoroughly enjoying the experience so far.
When we arrived at our Sault hotel yesterday, we immediately got our assigned Trek Travel bikes and the guides checked and adjusted the fit. At ~4:00 PM, we departed on our inaugural ride, ~2 hours, 2,200’ of climbing, 29 miles. The pace, averaging 16 mph, reflected pent-up travel energy and/or some sort of testosterone-fueled determination to ride hard. I was disappointed that I could not stay with the group when we hit grades of 4% or more, but Brian predicted, correctly it turned out, that on the longer climbs in days to come, my training would pay off and that I would ride well.
We are at the edge of Provence. The fields are filled with lavender. The roads are beautiful, small country lanes with no traffic. We passed by the familiar hay bale tractor that shows up every year along the Tour de France route.
Later today, Sunday, we will climb a about 2/3rds up Mont Ventoux on a secondary road to the Chalet Renard where we will watch the passing Tour de France riders from a balcony terrace. On the way, there will be hundreds of fans on the road: It will be a happening.
Monday Morning, July 15, Sault
Dear Carol, This is just a quick note to say that the jet lag depression has resolved. I had a good, social evening following an awesome race-watching day on Mont Ventoux.
Urggh! It is so frustrating typing on this Euro keyboard. Letters, like a, m and w are placed differently and I just hit a mystery key that froze the keyboard.
Yesterday’s Mont Ventoux was an easy ride. The secondary road was a gentle grade. The viewing station was spectacular! We had the entire restaurant, Chalet Renard, to ourselves and 2 or 3 other Trek Travel groups. Our site was on a curve so we could see the riders as they passed and then as they continued the climb to our right. We watched the progress of the stage race on a huge TV aside the road and 2 large-screen TVs on the chalet terrace.
We awaited several hours for the Tour -- first the Caravan, then the motos, then breakaway riders, then the peloton, then the straggling riders, then the team cars. At our site, fans were kept at bay by barricades because there were VIP viewing stands along the road, but 100 yards on there were no barricades and the swarm of fans lay in wait and then swallowed the riders. Even the most seasoned rider must have some trepidation heading into that mob, wondering if some drunk or overly enthusiastic fan will fail to step aside at the last possible moment.
After the stage race finished, hundreds of fans began walking to their vehicles on the secondary road. Immediately, we were mired in a tangle of pedestrians and vehicles trying to descend, all squeezed into a single lane, or less. Several times we lifted our bikes over our heads to make progress.
That was yesterday. Today’s (Monday’s) Ventoux was a different story. We rode the Tour route instead of the secondary road. It was very challenging! Mostly 7% to 9%, a very long, hard climb. I did better than great! I did the climb fairly easily, felt good at the summit and not at all wiped out now that I am back at the hotel. Tell Jamii [Jamii North, fitness trainer par excellence] thanks for me. It was truly a great ride and a wonderful, once-in-a-lifetime experience.
The ride began with a 25 mile descent on a road high above the Gorges de la Nesque to the town of Bédoin. There were many cyclists on that road and no wonder -- the views were stunning and the descent was awesome. Those 25 miles alone were enough to make this a great day of riding.
Bédion. The trip itinerary says it is “… a bustling market village on Monday! Listen for the sing song accent of the Provencal locals and stroll through the colorful market”. Hah! Stroll? Whose idea was it to have 25 cyclists drag their bikes through 8 blocks jammed with people? Not a highlight experience.
At last clear of the undertow of Bédoin shoppers, we started the ascent of Mont Ventoux. This is a challenging climb: 2+ hours (the pros do it in less than an hour!), 12.5 miles, 5,000’ . That’s 400’/mile, ~7.5% average with plenty of 9%-12% sections.
After summiting, we had a box lunch then began our descent. At Chalet Renard, where we watched the stage race yesterday, we left the race route and continued our descent on the secondary road. How different that was from the previous day’s experience -- no pedestrians, no vehicles, just us cyclists speeding (safely and sanely) down the recently repaved road, leaning hard into the curves, enjoying the warm air rushing by. That descent was a trip highlight.
Dear Carol, Finally! It has been an effort to get on-line but I'm here at last.
So far better than so good. The trip to get here was long and tiring, as expected. We arrived Avignon ~6 PM, = 20+ hours of travel, hardly any sleep, 7 episodes of House of Cards, an outstanding political drama starring Kevin Spacey.
Brian (Mills) and I will travel well together. We've had some good conversations and our travel needs and attitudes seem quite compatible.
Two hours till we meet the group. Time to have a bite to eat.
Sunday Morning, July 14, Sault
Dear Carol, Still struggling to find access. This morning I located a computer with Internet connection. Yay
First ride yesterday. Most riders are younger, of course, and much stronger. Many tri-athletes. Two couples are closer to my age. I am slowly getting acquainted with others. I can tell that I am in that mode of not wanting to interact much with people. I suspect I am experiencing some depression resulting from the travel and getting my body and brain chemicals back to normal. Nothing to be concerned about. I am thoroughly enjoying the experience so far.
When we arrived at our Sault hotel yesterday, we immediately got our assigned Trek Travel bikes and the guides checked and adjusted the fit. At ~4:00 PM, we departed on our inaugural ride, ~2 hours, 2,200’ of climbing, 29 miles. The pace, averaging 16 mph, reflected pent-up travel energy and/or some sort of testosterone-fueled determination to ride hard. I was disappointed that I could not stay with the group when we hit grades of 4% or more, but Brian predicted, correctly it turned out, that on the longer climbs in days to come, my training would pay off and that I would ride well.
We are at the edge of Provence. The fields are filled with lavender. The roads are beautiful, small country lanes with no traffic. We passed by the familiar hay bale tractor that shows up every year along the Tour de France route.
Later today, Sunday, we will climb a about 2/3rds up Mont Ventoux on a secondary road to the Chalet Renard where we will watch the passing Tour de France riders from a balcony terrace. On the way, there will be hundreds of fans on the road: It will be a happening.
Monday Morning, July 15, Sault
Dear Carol, This is just a quick note to say that the jet lag depression has resolved. I had a good, social evening following an awesome race-watching day on Mont Ventoux.
Urggh! It is so frustrating typing on this Euro keyboard. Letters, like a, m and w are placed differently and I just hit a mystery key that froze the keyboard.
Yesterday’s Mont Ventoux was an easy ride. The secondary road was a gentle grade. The viewing station was spectacular! We had the entire restaurant, Chalet Renard, to ourselves and 2 or 3 other Trek Travel groups. Our site was on a curve so we could see the riders as they passed and then as they continued the climb to our right. We watched the progress of the stage race on a huge TV aside the road and 2 large-screen TVs on the chalet terrace.
We awaited several hours for the Tour -- first the Caravan, then the motos, then breakaway riders, then the peloton, then the straggling riders, then the team cars. At our site, fans were kept at bay by barricades because there were VIP viewing stands along the road, but 100 yards on there were no barricades and the swarm of fans lay in wait and then swallowed the riders. Even the most seasoned rider must have some trepidation heading into that mob, wondering if some drunk or overly enthusiastic fan will fail to step aside at the last possible moment.
After the stage race finished, hundreds of fans began walking to their vehicles on the secondary road. Immediately, we were mired in a tangle of pedestrians and vehicles trying to descend, all squeezed into a single lane, or less. Several times we lifted our bikes over our heads to make progress.
That was yesterday. Today’s (Monday’s) Ventoux was a different story. We rode the Tour route instead of the secondary road. It was very challenging! Mostly 7% to 9%, a very long, hard climb. I did better than great! I did the climb fairly easily, felt good at the summit and not at all wiped out now that I am back at the hotel. Tell Jamii [Jamii North, fitness trainer par excellence] thanks for me. It was truly a great ride and a wonderful, once-in-a-lifetime experience.
The ride began with a 25 mile descent on a road high above the Gorges de la Nesque to the town of Bédoin. There were many cyclists on that road and no wonder -- the views were stunning and the descent was awesome. Those 25 miles alone were enough to make this a great day of riding.
Bédion. The trip itinerary says it is “… a bustling market village on Monday! Listen for the sing song accent of the Provencal locals and stroll through the colorful market”. Hah! Stroll? Whose idea was it to have 25 cyclists drag their bikes through 8 blocks jammed with people? Not a highlight experience.
At last clear of the undertow of Bédoin shoppers, we started the ascent of Mont Ventoux. This is a challenging climb: 2+ hours (the pros do it in less than an hour!), 12.5 miles, 5,000’ . That’s 400’/mile, ~7.5% average with plenty of 9%-12% sections.
After summiting, we had a box lunch then began our descent. At Chalet Renard, where we watched the stage race yesterday, we left the race route and continued our descent on the secondary road. How different that was from the previous day’s experience -- no pedestrians, no vehicles, just us cyclists speeding (safely and sanely) down the recently repaved road, leaning hard into the curves, enjoying the warm air rushing by. That descent was a trip highlight.
Tuesday evening, July 16, Alpes d’Huez
We did a great ride late this afternoon, following a long bus ride from Sault to our hotel at the top of Alpe d'Huez. The ride began with a short climb to the Col de Sarenne where we enjoyed the snow dappled peaks surrounding Alpe d’Huez. Then a 10 mile descent on a narrow, pocked road that the Tour will ride on Thursday. It will be interesting to see how the riders handle it. We may see some nasty crashes.
After the descent, we rode on a “balcony road” cut into the side of a mountain, high above the Romanche River valley. Ten miles later, we turned onto the famous Alpe d’Huez road at La Garde, just below Turn #15 (more about the numbered turns later) and climbed 8 miles to the hotel. It was a terrific ride of 3+ hours, 32 miles, 5,300’ of climbing. (Note: click photo and drag corner to enlarge.)
I continue riding strong and feeling good. Brian and I had dinner at a local pasta place then I did a bathtub full of riding laundry. It is now past 11 so I will stop.
We did a great ride late this afternoon, following a long bus ride from Sault to our hotel at the top of Alpe d'Huez. The ride began with a short climb to the Col de Sarenne where we enjoyed the snow dappled peaks surrounding Alpe d’Huez. Then a 10 mile descent on a narrow, pocked road that the Tour will ride on Thursday. It will be interesting to see how the riders handle it. We may see some nasty crashes.
After the descent, we rode on a “balcony road” cut into the side of a mountain, high above the Romanche River valley. Ten miles later, we turned onto the famous Alpe d’Huez road at La Garde, just below Turn #15 (more about the numbered turns later) and climbed 8 miles to the hotel. It was a terrific ride of 3+ hours, 32 miles, 5,300’ of climbing. (Note: click photo and drag corner to enlarge.)
I continue riding strong and feeling good. Brian and I had dinner at a local pasta place then I did a bathtub full of riding laundry. It is now past 11 so I will stop.
Wednesday evening, July 17, Alpes D’Huez
Big ride today with a lot of long, steep climbing. Again, I rode strong and felt good. The combination of Jamii’s training plan and the week with Jody in Markleeville has paid off.
I'm much enjoying my time with Brian. I have gotten to know several of the others but the rides and the Tour are the high priorities for most of the guests, including me.
We began the day by descending about half way down the Alpes d’Huez road to Huez Village, between corners #7 & #8,turning onto a small, secondary road through Villard-Reculas -- descending, descending for 1,000’ over 12 miles. Then we began climbing to the Col de la Croix de Fer: 3,600’ in 18 miles. From that summit, it was a short side trip to the Col du Glandon.
This ride was the most challenging of the week: 57 miles, 9,200’. There were many cyclists on the road and many, less welcome, support vehicles. For roughly a quarter of the climb I rode with, or more accurately drafted behind, Paul, employing the 60/40 rule, which I will explain later. Eventually, Paul pooped out and I went on alone and rode mostly alone the rest of the day.
Near the summit, we were greeted by cold, light rain. Fortunately, Trek Travel had arranged a private room and box lunches at a chalet where the road splits, one way leading to the Col de la Croix de Fer and the other to the Col de Glandon. Brian and I met up at the split and completed the rides to the two cols, which are quite near one another, before retreating to the chalet. The descent followed by the climb back up Alpe d’Huez was uneventful, tiring and, as I reflect on it, a bit lonely. Nevertheless, I had a good sense of satisfaction for having completed the ride and not taking the shuttle, as several others had done.
Post script: During dinner, it began raining. “This is good,” we thought, “because the nutty drunks will retreat to their tents and we may get some sleep tonight.” Wrong. Around 10:00 P.M., the rain stopped and the revelers started. Two kinds of people come to the Tour: the cyclists and the partiers, and we are by far in the minority. One especially loud bunch (so much noise from just 6 guys) made a 2-hour circuit of the village singing at the top of their lungs. I last heard them at 3:00 A.M.: others reported hearing them again at 5:00 A.M. Closed windows, ear plugs, pillow smashed over the head -- eventually I slept.
Thursday evening, July 18, Alpes D’Huez
It’s race day on Alpe d’Huez. Even in the early morning, as the revelers are struggling toward resurrection, I can sense the buzz of anticipation beginning. We will descend through the madding crowd to the roundabout at the base of the Alpe d’Huez road, turn around and climb back to our viewing/lunch venue. I should be excited but, for reasons I will later understand, I am grumpy and not wanting to do this ride. For this there is only one obvious-to-me response -- get on the bike, point it downhill and go. I do that.
The descent was uneventful. It was still early and there were relatively few vehicles and cyclists descending. However, near the roundabout the road was hopelessly clogged so I turned around and began climbing.
It’s race day on Alpe d’Huez. Even in the early morning, as the revelers are struggling toward resurrection, I can sense the buzz of anticipation beginning. We will descend through the madding crowd to the roundabout at the base of the Alpe d’Huez road, turn around and climb back to our viewing/lunch venue. I should be excited but, for reasons I will later understand, I am grumpy and not wanting to do this ride. For this there is only one obvious-to-me response -- get on the bike, point it downhill and go. I do that.
The descent was uneventful. It was still early and there were relatively few vehicles and cyclists descending. However, near the roundabout the road was hopelessly clogged so I turned around and began climbing.
The return ascent was a challenge both for the climb -- 3,500’ in 8 miles and for the hazards and distractions. More vehicles and cyclists in both directions now. Most dangerous were cyclists, like this guy, taking photos while riding. Much broken glass and other debris roadside -- all of which will be miraculously swept up within hours of the end of the stage.
Three of the 21 numbered corners are “reserved”: #10 Irish corner; #7 Dutch corner; #3 Norwegian corner. As I passed, the occupiers were just stumbling out from their burrows, but come mid afternoon when the peloton comes through … well, here’s a good description by AP Sports writer, Jerome Pugmire: Fans jammed the 21 hairpin bends on L'Alpe d'Huez in a chaotic atmosphere. Many were in fancy dress: Vicars, super heroes and other outfits of more dubious taste.
But there was still a degree of organization within the mayhem, with certain corners reserved for fans from certain countries. One of those is known as "Dutch Corner" and several hundred screaming, shouting Dutch men and women formed a vortex that sucked the riders in amid a surreal cacophony of indecipherable shrieks, howls and wails.Several dozen Norwegians, some in plastic Viking helmets, formed a human shield around one corner near the top.
Elsewhere, a dozen or so Colombians marched uphill singing songs and carrying a giant national flag. [These must be the same guys who circled through town all night --Jon] There were British Union Jack flags, Irish tricolors, Australian fans dressed in kangaroo suits and some dressed as inflatable giant flowers. Occasionally, a distressed looking police officer would blow a whistle, trying to stop fans from getting too close to the riders. One got too close to Riblon, who elbowed him in the chest to get him away, and a young boy ran in front of Froome, who just managed to avoid him.
For the first time and in recognition of the Tour’s 100th year, the riders climbed Alpe d’Huez twice this day. Not that it was their choice: the Tour organizers made them do it. We had a good vantage from the balcony of our room. It was great fun to be there on this special day and in this special place.
Mid afternoon, I was still grumping about. Then suddenly, as if a switch were thrown, I came alive and became a reasonable social being again. Sometime later I recognized the pattern of depression that follows an especially hard ride. In this case, the previous day, climbing to the Col de Glandon, had been very challenging and afterward my body and brain went into recovery mode for about 24 hours. “Don’t bother me. I’m recovering.” Glad to be back among the living.
Friday morning, July 19, Alpes D’Huez
Awoke to a beautiful morning following a solid eight. We descended to the village of Bourg d'Oisan at the base of Alpe d'Huez. The race starts here in about an hour. The barricaded, narrow main street is packed -- team and support vehicles, motos, gendarmerie ... The sidewalks are jammed with people at the barricades, waiting, and others squeezing by as best they can going in both directions. I've found a shady bench in a postage stamp park just in front of the glad-to-have-found toilettes.
An old (77 he says) gentleman who lives in the town has kindly tried to engage with me. Alas, I have no French. He talked with me briefly in halting, limited English, then gave up with mental exhaustion. He says he was for 42 years a skiing instructor at Alpe d'Huez, which, irrespective of its renown among cyclists, is essentially a ski town.
Three of the 21 numbered corners are “reserved”: #10 Irish corner; #7 Dutch corner; #3 Norwegian corner. As I passed, the occupiers were just stumbling out from their burrows, but come mid afternoon when the peloton comes through … well, here’s a good description by AP Sports writer, Jerome Pugmire: Fans jammed the 21 hairpin bends on L'Alpe d'Huez in a chaotic atmosphere. Many were in fancy dress: Vicars, super heroes and other outfits of more dubious taste.
But there was still a degree of organization within the mayhem, with certain corners reserved for fans from certain countries. One of those is known as "Dutch Corner" and several hundred screaming, shouting Dutch men and women formed a vortex that sucked the riders in amid a surreal cacophony of indecipherable shrieks, howls and wails.Several dozen Norwegians, some in plastic Viking helmets, formed a human shield around one corner near the top.
Elsewhere, a dozen or so Colombians marched uphill singing songs and carrying a giant national flag. [These must be the same guys who circled through town all night --Jon] There were British Union Jack flags, Irish tricolors, Australian fans dressed in kangaroo suits and some dressed as inflatable giant flowers. Occasionally, a distressed looking police officer would blow a whistle, trying to stop fans from getting too close to the riders. One got too close to Riblon, who elbowed him in the chest to get him away, and a young boy ran in front of Froome, who just managed to avoid him.
For the first time and in recognition of the Tour’s 100th year, the riders climbed Alpe d’Huez twice this day. Not that it was their choice: the Tour organizers made them do it. We had a good vantage from the balcony of our room. It was great fun to be there on this special day and in this special place.
Mid afternoon, I was still grumping about. Then suddenly, as if a switch were thrown, I came alive and became a reasonable social being again. Sometime later I recognized the pattern of depression that follows an especially hard ride. In this case, the previous day, climbing to the Col de Glandon, had been very challenging and afterward my body and brain went into recovery mode for about 24 hours. “Don’t bother me. I’m recovering.” Glad to be back among the living.
Friday morning, July 19, Alpes D’Huez
Awoke to a beautiful morning following a solid eight. We descended to the village of Bourg d'Oisan at the base of Alpe d'Huez. The race starts here in about an hour. The barricaded, narrow main street is packed -- team and support vehicles, motos, gendarmerie ... The sidewalks are jammed with people at the barricades, waiting, and others squeezing by as best they can going in both directions. I've found a shady bench in a postage stamp park just in front of the glad-to-have-found toilettes.
An old (77 he says) gentleman who lives in the town has kindly tried to engage with me. Alas, I have no French. He talked with me briefly in halting, limited English, then gave up with mental exhaustion. He says he was for 42 years a skiing instructor at Alpe d'Huez, which, irrespective of its renown among cyclists, is essentially a ski town.
The riders are starting soon so I will go now to claim a viewing spot street-side.
In the photo you can see the Tour riders just up the block waiting for the start.
Later that day … After lunch at a local pizzeria, we did a ride with "easy" climbing -- 5.7% average -- to the Col d’Ornon and then our 4th and final climb back up to to Alpe d'Huez village -- light rain going up and down and up -- more beautiful scenery and abundant wild flowers. Although not the same, the valleys carved long ago by retreating glaciers remind me of Yosemite -- dramatic cliff faces with stripes of layered rock.
Tomorrow we depart 6:00 AM by bus to Grenoble then TGV to Paris.
In the photo you can see the Tour riders just up the block waiting for the start.
Later that day … After lunch at a local pizzeria, we did a ride with "easy" climbing -- 5.7% average -- to the Col d’Ornon and then our 4th and final climb back up to to Alpe d'Huez village -- light rain going up and down and up -- more beautiful scenery and abundant wild flowers. Although not the same, the valleys carved long ago by retreating glaciers remind me of Yosemite -- dramatic cliff faces with stripes of layered rock.
Tomorrow we depart 6:00 AM by bus to Grenoble then TGV to Paris.
Saturday evening, July 19, Paris
Shortly after noon, we arrived at the 5-star Hotel Pont Royal. While waiting in the check-in line, Alison (Brian’s wife, Alison Superko) came to greet me. So nice to see her friendly, smiling face.
Late afternoon, I walked to Le Musee d'Orsay, which I have been eager to visit after seeing at the de Young the compelling exhibit about how the old Gare d’Orsay terminal was transformed into a world-class art museum. I loved it.
After dinner with Brian & Alison, we walked 5 blocks, crossed the Seine on the Pont Royal and came unexpectedly onto the courtyard of Le Louvre palace. The air was pleasantly warm, there was a full moon above the palace, and the courtyard was alive with people taking photos and enjoying themselves. A memorable experience of an evening in beautiful Paris.
Shortly after noon, we arrived at the 5-star Hotel Pont Royal. While waiting in the check-in line, Alison (Brian’s wife, Alison Superko) came to greet me. So nice to see her friendly, smiling face.
Late afternoon, I walked to Le Musee d'Orsay, which I have been eager to visit after seeing at the de Young the compelling exhibit about how the old Gare d’Orsay terminal was transformed into a world-class art museum. I loved it.
After dinner with Brian & Alison, we walked 5 blocks, crossed the Seine on the Pont Royal and came unexpectedly onto the courtyard of Le Louvre palace. The air was pleasantly warm, there was a full moon above the palace, and the courtyard was alive with people taking photos and enjoying themselves. A memorable experience of an evening in beautiful Paris.
Sunday, July 20, Paris
Mid morning we gathered in the lobby for our final ride. The guides had driven the vans with the bikes 8 hours from Alpe d’Huez, so we could do this last, short-but-sweet ride. We would be riding the Champs-Elysées just hours before the traditional Tour finale on this iconic loop.
The experience began with a short ride on side streets to the Eiffel Tower. We rode right underneath the Tower, stopping for photos, like this one. Then, in a few more blocks, we crossed the Seine on the Pont d’Iéna, and arrived at the staging area within sight of the Arc de Triomphe, at the western end of the Champs-Elysées.
The Arc de Triomphe stands in the center of the Place de l'Étoile. Every day at any hour, traffic moving 12 abreast swirls with vehicles maneuvering off and onto the 12 avenues that feed into this huge roundabout. Today, however, there were only a few official vehicles. It was Tour de France day in Paris.
It was a beautiful summer day, warm but pleasant. An amateur band semi-competently played marching music. It was all part of the delightful Tour de France gestalt.
Before we got onto the course, we waited with our bikes, baking in the sun, for an hour: I don't know why. As we finally were allowed to start I realized that my rear tire was flat -- 30 yards from the beginning of the course. By the time I changed the tire I was the very last of 5,000 riders on my bike. It didn't matter and I think I enjoyed the ride more being off the back than if I had been with a tightly packed group ahead. We circled the Champs-Elysées once, then rode back to the hotel, and returned our bicycles to our guides, our final ride completed. However, the grand finale of our Trek Travel experience was yet to come.
That evening, we would watch the Tour’s ritual ride, 10 laps of the Champs-Elysées, from the balcony of the Automobile Club of France overlooking the Place de la Concorde.
In the center of the Place de la Concorde is a 75 foot high Egyptian obelisk decorated with hieroglyphics exalting the reign of the pharaoh Ramesses II. The obelisk once marked the entrance to the Luxor Temple. King Louis Philippe had it placed in the center of Place de la Concorde, where a guillotine stood during the Revolution. Missing its original cap, believed stolen in the 6th century BC, the government of France added a gold-leafed pyramid cap to the top of the obelisk in 1998. In 2000 French urban climber Alain “Spiderman” Robert, using only his bare hands, climbing shoes and no safety devices, scaled the obelisk to the top. --Wikipedia
In the center of the Place de la Concorde is a 75 foot high Egyptian obelisk decorated with hieroglyphics exalting the reign of the pharaoh Ramesses II. The obelisk once marked the entrance to the Luxor Temple. King Louis Philippe had it placed in the center of Place de la Concorde, where a guillotine stood during the Revolution. Missing its original cap, believed stolen in the 6th century BC, the government of France added a gold-leafed pyramid cap to the top of the obelisk in 1998. In 2000 French urban climber Alain “Spiderman” Robert, using only his bare hands, climbing shoes and no safety devices, scaled the obelisk to the top. --Wikipedia
Also in the center of the Place, this particular evening, were the team buses. After the end of the stage, thanks to privileges accorded to Trek, a major Tour sponsor, we crossed the security lines and walked among the buses, mingling with and scoring autographs of riders and support personnel.
The Automobile Club of France, founded in 1895, is in a beautiful, classic old building. The ceilings are 20' high with large crystal chandeliers and gold decorative wall detailing. We watched on big screen TVs as the peloton circled the Champs d'Elisee. When they approached the Place we rushed to the balcony to watch them pass. Fun.
There is no good way to end this journal other than to say that it was a wonderful trip. I am grateful to those who made it possible especially the guides and most especially those acknowledged below.
The end.
__________________________________________________________________
The Automobile Club of France, founded in 1895, is in a beautiful, classic old building. The ceilings are 20' high with large crystal chandeliers and gold decorative wall detailing. We watched on big screen TVs as the peloton circled the Champs d'Elisee. When they approached the Place we rushed to the balcony to watch them pass. Fun.
There is no good way to end this journal other than to say that it was a wonderful trip. I am grateful to those who made it possible especially the guides and most especially those acknowledged below.
The end.
__________________________________________________________________
Acknowledgements and Thanks
Above all, I thank Carol who gave me this trip as a 70th birthday gift. What a gift!
Brian Mills, photo, invited me to join him and was a good travel companion. Thanks, Brian.
Jeff Selzer, Manager of Palo Alto Bicycles, helped me get a spot on this trip. Way to go, Jeff. All you readers, take your bicycling business to Palo Alto Bicycles.
Notes (which my editor says could/should be deleted)
Alpe d’Huez. The 8.6 mile climb has an average gradient of 8.1% and a maximum gradient of 13%. The 21 hairpin bends are named after the winners of Alpe d’Huez stages in previous Tours. The Alpe has chaotic crowds of spectators. "We expect more than 400,000 for the centenary race in 2013," said a local mayor. The author Tim Moore wrote: “Alpe d'Huez annoys the purists but enthralls the broader public, Last year, a full-blown tent-stamping riot required police intervention. During the 2012 clean-up operation, down in a ravine with the bottle shards and dented tins, a body turned up. He'd fallen off the mountain and no one had noticed. When the Tour goes up Alpe d'Huez, it's a squalid, manic and sometimes lethal shambles, and that's just the way they like it.” --Wikipedia.
Mont Ventoux is a mountain in the Provence region of southern France. It is the largest mountain in the region and has been nicknamed the "Beast of Provence", the "Giant of Provence", or "The Bald Mountain".
As the name suggests (venteux means windy in French), the wind blows at 50+ mph 240 days a year. [Fortunately, not the on day of the Tour nor the following day when we did the climb. --Jon]. The real origins of the name are thought to trace back to the 1st or 2nd century AD, when it was named 'Vintur' after a Gaulish god of the summits, or 'Ven-Top', meaning "snowy peak" in ancient Gallic.
The mountain can be cycled by three routes.
South from Bédoin: 5,300 feet over 13.6 miles. This is the most famous and difficult ascent. The road to the summit has an average gradient of 7.43%. The climb is easy at 3.9% over 3.6 miles, but the remaining 10 miles have an average gradient of 8.9%. The ride takes 1h30m-2h30m for trained amateur riders [My time was just under 2 hours. --Jon]. Professional riders take 1h-1h15 min. The fastest time so far recorded has been that of Iban Mayo in 2004: 55' 51".
Northwest from Malaucene: 5,150 feet over 13.4 miles. About equal in difficulty as the Bédoin ascent, better sheltered against the wind. [In 2000, Carol and I did this ascent on our tandem with Craig Johnson, whose photo of us at the summit now resides on our mantel.]
East from Sault: 3,970 feet over 16 miles. The easiest route. After Chalet Reynard (where the "lunar landscape" of the summit starts and where we watched the tour), the climb is the same as the Bédoin ascent. Average gradient of 4.4%. [This is the route from our hotel that I described in Journal 1 of 3. --Jon]
Every year there are amateur races to climb the mountain as quickly and often as possible in 24 hours. In 2006, a rider from Bédoin broke the record of climbs in 24 hours, with eleven climbs. --Wikipedia
Alpe d’Huez. The 8.6 mile climb has an average gradient of 8.1% and a maximum gradient of 13%. The 21 hairpin bends are named after the winners of Alpe d’Huez stages in previous Tours. The Alpe has chaotic crowds of spectators. "We expect more than 400,000 for the centenary race in 2013," said a local mayor. The author Tim Moore wrote: “Alpe d'Huez annoys the purists but enthralls the broader public, Last year, a full-blown tent-stamping riot required police intervention. During the 2012 clean-up operation, down in a ravine with the bottle shards and dented tins, a body turned up. He'd fallen off the mountain and no one had noticed. When the Tour goes up Alpe d'Huez, it's a squalid, manic and sometimes lethal shambles, and that's just the way they like it.” --Wikipedia.
Mont Ventoux is a mountain in the Provence region of southern France. It is the largest mountain in the region and has been nicknamed the "Beast of Provence", the "Giant of Provence", or "The Bald Mountain".
As the name suggests (venteux means windy in French), the wind blows at 50+ mph 240 days a year. [Fortunately, not the on day of the Tour nor the following day when we did the climb. --Jon]. The real origins of the name are thought to trace back to the 1st or 2nd century AD, when it was named 'Vintur' after a Gaulish god of the summits, or 'Ven-Top', meaning "snowy peak" in ancient Gallic.
The mountain can be cycled by three routes.
South from Bédoin: 5,300 feet over 13.6 miles. This is the most famous and difficult ascent. The road to the summit has an average gradient of 7.43%. The climb is easy at 3.9% over 3.6 miles, but the remaining 10 miles have an average gradient of 8.9%. The ride takes 1h30m-2h30m for trained amateur riders [My time was just under 2 hours. --Jon]. Professional riders take 1h-1h15 min. The fastest time so far recorded has been that of Iban Mayo in 2004: 55' 51".
Northwest from Malaucene: 5,150 feet over 13.4 miles. About equal in difficulty as the Bédoin ascent, better sheltered against the wind. [In 2000, Carol and I did this ascent on our tandem with Craig Johnson, whose photo of us at the summit now resides on our mantel.]
East from Sault: 3,970 feet over 16 miles. The easiest route. After Chalet Reynard (where the "lunar landscape" of the summit starts and where we watched the tour), the climb is the same as the Bédoin ascent. Average gradient of 4.4%. [This is the route from our hotel that I described in Journal 1 of 3. --Jon]
Every year there are amateur races to climb the mountain as quickly and often as possible in 24 hours. In 2006, a rider from Bédoin broke the record of climbs in 24 hours, with eleven climbs. --Wikipedia
Rondonée du Tour (from the official Tour de France Website). A triumphant welcome awaits the riders of the 100th Tour de France when they barrel down the Champs-Elysées next July 21. Shortly before this year’s Tour draws to a close on the most beautiful avenue in the world, members of the public will get the chance to push the pedals as they enjoy a huge convivial ride on the final circuit which will be tackled by the Tour riders just a few hours later.
A legendary circuit through the heart of the City of Light. Who has never dreamed of riding down the Champs-Elysées on a summer Sunday and discovering the Arc de Triomphe, the Obelisk on Place de la Concorde and the Louvre without being bothered by traffic? The Randonnée du Tour will give 5,000 lucky participants a rare opportunity to do this on July 21. The course is a 4.3 mile loop that will take them around the most well-known landmarks of the capital. All clad in yellow together with their family or friends, the amateur cyclists will start departing Avenue Foch at 3 pm and ride the same loop around the Champs-Elysées as the pros, whom they will get to cheer on from the sidelines at the end of the day!
Trek Travel is independently owned while closely associated with Trek Bicycle Corporation. They offer a wide variety of travel experiences from avid cycling like this trip to family cycling. Trips include top-end Trek bikes, the guides are great and the logistics are well done. I recommend this company.
60/40 Rule. If I am in my 60s and you in your 40s, I can draft behind you all I want and never have to pull. This useful rule is flexible. and can be modified as needed;
e.g., 70/60 rule, 62/61 rule, etc.
Hover over the photos below to see captions on some of them.
e.g., 70/60 rule, 62/61 rule, etc.
Hover over the photos below to see captions on some of them.